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pamirs mountains Robert Middleton pik engels karl marx

POMIR, feet of the sun,
Man and mountain and river are one.
Through pride in the land and pride in the earth
The people now celebrate a rebirth.
To give is to love, to love is to give;
To sing is to breathe, to dance is to live.
The feet caress the earth below,
Drawing the strength, releasing the flow.
The hands reach up to the sky above,
Catching the beauty, expressing the love.
Freshness and innocence, tenderness, grace -
In this Garden of Eden my soul's found its place.
Earth, fire, water and air:
The fire's in my heart, the water's a tear

click on picture to enlarge (photo by Bradley Mayhew)

 

IMPORTANT NOTICE - October 2012: Following the occupation of Khorog by armed government forces in July 2012, the Tajik government stopped issuing permits for tourists to visit Gorno-Badakhshan. According to a notice published by the US embassy in Dushanbe, the issue of GBAO permits has resumed - see here.

Get advice from your Foreign Ministry and check with the nearest Tajik consultate before leaving home.


This website is dedicated to the children and other people of the Pamirs, a region they know as POMIR – “the roof of the world”, although some claim that POMIR means “feet of the sun”. The Pamirs are one of the last "undiscovered" tourist destinations.

This mountainous area, a large part of which is located in Gorno-Badakhshan in Tajikistan, is one of the most inaccessible in the world. A former British Ambassador to Tajikistan described the fascination and beauty of the region as “one of the world’s best kept secrets”. The website is sponsored as a non-profit activity by a few lovers of the region who want to share this “secret” with others who are in search of an unusual and challenging experience. In doing so, a supplementary goal is to bring additional revenue to the remarkable inhabitants of POMIR, among the poorest in the world, by encouraging travellers to go there.

The aim is not to replace the many useful existing websites and other sources containing information on Tajikistan and the Pamirs but to bring together in one place as much as possible of what today’s explorer needs or would like to know before setting out on the adventure that is POMIR: accurate and helpful information on “getting there” and “getting around” together with description and pictures of some of the features of the region, not least its unforgettable children and other people


When visiting the Pamirs, bear in mind that you are enjoying a tradition of hospitality that has existed since time immemorial. While there are now a large number of "official" homestays, you can be certain of finding a place to stay in every house and in every village in the Pamirs - you may, however, find it very difficult to pay your hosts for their hospitality, but be sure to do so, even if it means hiding a few bank notes under your breakfast plate when you leave. In this way you are making an investment in the well-being of these wonderful people and in the future of their children.

Your feedback on the contents and intent of this website is welcome. If you would like to comment or ask a question please send a message by clicking
here
. N.B. Because of spam, this contact address is frequently changed, so even if you have used it before and saved the address, please click again to be sure your mail gets through.

Don't forget to have a look at the advertisements by clicking on the icon at the top left of this page or
here
. This free service is offered to small businesses and local communities in the Pamirs to enable them to inform tourists about their tourism initiatives.

 

pomir poem tajik


THE PAMIRS: CLOSE TO HEAVEN - GET THERE BEFORE THE TOURISTS COME

 

Many thanks to Misha Romanyuk for the design of the website and to Alexander Goutkin for putting the panoramas together.


All text and photographs (c) Robert Middleton 2002

  28 April 2013
Kulma Pass open for tourists - confirmation from Tajik Border Guard commander and Khorog Tourist Office.

16 December 2012
Yuri Khubonshoyev, pioneer of the Aga Khan Foundation's programme in the Pamirs - See here.

7 December 2012 - 14h
Facebook banned in Tajikistan because of "slanderous" content about the President. More likely because Facebook was one of the only means of expressing outrage at the invasion of GBAO .... N.B. In the meantime the decision was reversed. See here and here.

6 December 2012 - 9h
Delays at Dushanbe airport - another nonsensical obstacle to tourism in Tajikistan - see here.

6 December 2012 - 9h
Good news: Tajikistan is not bottom of Transparency International's corruption index - with 22 points out of a maximum 100, Tajikistan ranks 154th out of 176, above Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan - see here.

28 September 2012 - 14h
Now I understand why Radio Free Europe/Ozodi is blocked in Tajikistan - see here.

7 October 2012 - 10h
KHOROG CRISIS - NEWS UPDATE - Headlines: Excellent analytical article on Khorog crisis by Shahrbanou Tadjbakhsh - Bizarre official Tajik statements to OSCE conference in Warsaw - TojNews gives details of orders for website blocking - Head of Government Communications Service argues implausibly that the government had nothing to do with the blocking - President makes uncompromising public speech in Khorog - see here
.

28 September 2012 - 14h
Now I understand why Radio Free Europe/Ozodi is blocked in Tajikistan - see here.

25 September 2012 - 22h
Tajik statements to OSCE conference in Warsaw: Muzaffar Ashurov, head of the department for the constitutional rights in the Executive Office of the President, accused media of "creating the conditions for the recurrence" of the events in Khorog. Nargis Zokirova, chairperson of the Bureau on Human Rights and Rule of Law of Tajikistan, noted that according to the data of the National Association of Independent Media of Tajikistan (Nansmit), the country’s communications service agency has restricted access to 15 news websites in recent months and called on the Government of Tajikistan to unblock them. The Asia-Plus representative noted that actions of the Tajik authorities on blocking news websites had caused criticism from the European Union, the OSCE, the United States and many other countries and international organizations. However, this had yielded no results - see here
.

21 September 2012 - 17h
One of the news agencies whose websites are currently blocked in Tajikistan says the measure is counter-productive and only strengthens opposition to the government on the eve of the presidential election - gives details of orders for the blocking - see here. Head of the Government Communications Service argues implausibly that the government had nothing to do with the site blocking - see here.

20 September 2012 - 9h
Radio Ozodi article doubts Rahmon visit and uncompromising views he expressed in public meeting will defuse situation in Khorog - Were participants in meeting carefully selected to avoid criticism of President? - However, brave statement by Asia Plus reporter Ramzia Mirzobekova - see here.

20 September 2012 - 9h
Asia Plus reports speech by Rahmon in Khorog criticising the work of law enforcement and security agencies, including judges: "If you had done your work professionally and diligently, the latest events in Khorog would not have happened" - see here.

18 September 2012 - 10h
Radio Ozodi reports on President's visit to GBAO and quotes official sources that 70 people died in government invasion (of which 17 soldiers) the highest official figure released so far - see here.

15 September 2012 - 13h
YouTube video exposes censored coverage of events in Khorog by Tajik TV - see here and, for a translation of accompanying text,
here.

15 September 2012 - 13h
Asia-Plus publishes "open letter" to President from GBAO residents - see here.

14 September 2012 - 19h
Radio Ozodi publishes interview with Muhammadbokir Muhammadbokirov - see here.

14 September 2012 - 9h
Substantive article in Asia-Plus confirms collapse of Tajik tourism due to government invasion of GBAO - see here
.

July 2012
New Section on the Afghan Wakhan - see here
.

March 2012
University of Central Asia publishes English-language selection of "Legends of the Pamirs" - see here
.

December 2011
Official Tajik Tourism Committee confirms that double-entry visas (essential if you plan to travel from Tajikistan to Afghanistan and back) can be obtained at Dushanbe airport.

August 2011
Second edition of Odyssey guidebook TAJIKISTAN AND THE HIGH PAMIRS available from September 2011 - see here


November 2010
Itineraries in the Pamirs prepared for tour operators at WTM London in November 2010 - See here



 

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