With support from the European Union,
the Mountain Societies Development Support Programme (MSDSP - a project of the Aga Khan Foundation)
and the Pamirs EcoTourism Association (PECTA) have opened a Tourism Information Centre in Khorog, located in the Central Park.The Centre provides general travel advice as well
as information on local tourism service providers (tour operators, hotels, home stays, drivers, guides
To send an e-mail click
For information on border crossings to Tajikistan, see
here. N.B. Despite confirmation received in April 2013 from the Tajik
Border Guard commander and Khorog Tourist Office that the Kulma Pass to/from China
is now open for tourists, it seems (19 July 2013 - see
that the Chinese border guards are not allowing tourists through.
(If anyone has done so successfully, please send me an e-mail via the link on the
A new website (run by Sophie Willingale) gives very useful and up-to-date information
about travel to and in Tajikistan. See
Another new website gives information on small private hotels in Khorog and plans to add information on restaurants, sight-seeing etc. See
I have recently added a web page with information on travel to the Afghan Wakhan
(click here to access this page).
On 21 June 2013, UNESCO announced that the Pamirs had been recognised as a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. What this means for tourism remains to be seen. I fear not all good,
as I suggested to UNESCO in the following e-mail sent the same day:
"As co-author of the first tourist guide to Tajikistan (Odyssey Publications 2008/2011), I
was delighted to learn of the designation of the Pamirs as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
I regret, however, that this designation is defined by the appellation "Tajikistan National Park",
that bears no relationship to facts on the ground. The "Park" has no clearly defined (much
less publicly designated) boundaries, no ranger personnel and no funding. Apart from those
like myself who are only concerend to promote ecotourism in the Pamirs, those most interested
in this new honour will certainly be the Tajik government - which has an excuse to levy fees
from tourists for non-existent park services and non-planned investments in the protection
of the site - and the many officials, semi-officials and plain local frauds who try to shake
tourists down for a few dollars.
I would not wish that UNESCO withdraw the nomination, only that there be some follow-up by
UNESCO to ensure that areas designated and recognised as national parks be effectively
managed as a natural national resource."
If I get an answer, I will post it. (N.B. As of 31 July, neither UNESCO nor IUCN - which actually
makes the recommendations to UNESCO - have given me the courtesy of an acknowledgement of my legitimate comment.)
There are several ways of getting to Tajikistan and Gorno-Badakhshan.
For general (and very useful) travel advice, see
1. via Dushanbe
a) Turkish Airlines flight from Istanbul: in summer outward on Sunday,
Monday and Wednesday (return the following day) - see the Turkish Airlines website for details:
N.B. Turkish Airlines now flies to and from Osh. See
b) A relatively recent arrival on the international travel market is the Tajik company
Somon Air -
c) Tajik Air (Tajikistan Airlines) flies daily Moscow-Dushanbe from
Domodedovo Airport in Moscow (on some days more than one flight). The schedule can be
Most of these flights allow an onward connection to Dushanbe the same day from
international flights arriving in Domodedovo. For flights arriving in Sheremetevo,
at least 2 hours travel time - not counting immigration and check-in - must be
allowed for the airport transfer (expensive by taxi), otherwise, on the way to
Dushanbe, travellers must spend a night in Moscow, which can be expensive and for
which a Russian visa is required (also expensive). The timing of the return flight,
however, makes it possible to connect the same day with flights to most international
destinations. Several international airlines now use Domodedovo rather than
Sheremetevo. A complete listing can be found on
e) Other connections:
Dushanbe can be reached from other airports in the CIS and elsewhere.
Probably the best alternative route to those listed above is via Bishkek (or more recently) Osh
in Kyrgyzstan. This is particularly useful for travellers planning to combine
Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan on their tour. N.B. It is possible to buy a return ticket
from Turkish Airlines Istanbul/Dushanbe and Bishkek/Istanbul or vice versa.
FlyDubai now flies to Dushanbe from Dubai and flights are planned to Osh - see below.
East Air, a Tajik charter carrier, recently announced a weekly flight to and from New Delhi - see
It is very hard to find
information on flights from Kyrgyzstan to Dushanbe and vice versa. They exist but you must get
confirmation from the airline or from a local travel agent before believing any information
you may find on the Internet. The following airlines have/had connections from Bishkek to Dushanbe:
Avia Traffic Company (See
here - Russian only).
Kyrgyzstan Airlines (See
here - Russian only).
N.B. Nearly all air carriers certified by the authorities with responsibility for regulatory oversight
of the Kyrgyz Republic are banned by the European Union (see
Wikipedia is a useful source of fairly up-to-date information on these and other airlines.
My best advice is to contact a travel agent in Bishkek or Dushanbe for these connections.
One of the most reliable is Dima Melnichkov of Tajikaviatour in Dushanbe - 32 Bukhoro Street,
Dushanbe-734025 phone: + 992 37 227 4725, fax: + 992 37 221 1934 - e-mail
here [dmelnichkov(at)hotmail.com]. Dima is the author of the
booklet Travel through Tajikistan published in Dushanbe - see section
References, bibliography and links.
Once in Dushanbe, unless they have been able to obtain a mention of
Gorno-Badakhshan on their visa, travellers must spend up to three days
obtaining a special stamp in their passport authorising them to travel
to Gorno-Badakhshan. (See the section on
for help in obtaining this.)
From Dushanbe, travel to Gorno-Badakhshan is either by air to Khorog
or by road (approximately 16 hours in a modern four-wheel drive
vehicle, longer in a commercial bus). Subject to the provisos listed
below, there are one or more flights every day to and from Khorog.
Flights to Khorog are in a small plane that only departs Dushanbe if
there is no cloud cover on the mountains on the way into Khorog and if
Tajik Air determines that there are sufficient passengers to make the
flight economical. All flights originate in Dushanbe, which means
that there is only a flight Khorog-Dushanbe if the flight Dushanbe-Khorog
has taken place. In the absence of flights, arrangements must be made
for travel by
private car or bus.
The Lonely Planet guide describes the flight as "one of the main
attractions of Khorog" and "one of the most exhilarating or terrifying
experiences of your life" – the plane "flying in the shadow of the
rockface with its wingtips so close you could swear they kick up
swirls of snow."
Hotels. N.B. The
list is far from complete and excludes the major hotels in Dushanbe such as the
Serena and Hyatt.
In Dushanbe and Khorog there are a few acceptable hotels: information can be
obtained from several websites (search on Dushanbe/Khorog and hotels).
A new website offers information on a selection of hotels in Tajikistan - see
2) via Osh in Kyrgyzstan .
Osh, the second largest city in Kyrgyzstan, is situated in the South
of the country. A paved road runs South from Osh to the last Kyrgyz
checkpoint, Sary Tash (190km, 4 hours by private vehicle). From there
a partially paved road leads across the Pamir plateau to Khorog
(540km, 12 hours - several passes at altitudes higher than 4,000m).
The various checkposts will not allow travellers to pass unless their
mention specifically the destination of Gorno-Badakhshan.
There is no public transport available between Osh and Khorog.
Travellers must try to make their own arrangements either with private
vehicles or with one of the trucking companies operating out of Osh.
N.B. There is only one human settlement (at the Kara Kul lake) between
Sary Tash and Murghab (230km, altitude 3,640m).
For very good advice about hitchhiking, see
N.B. Another scam by Tajik border guards - when going through the Kara Kul checkpoint
on your way out of the Pamirs to Osh be careful to get back your immigration/landing card from the border guards.
Otherwise, it has been reported, their colleagues at the exit checkpoint at Kyzylart will impose
a heavy fine because you don't have it.
Karamyk Pass (Daroot Kurgan) crossing from the Alai valley in Kyrgyzstan to the Rasht valley (Garm) in Tajikistan
To the best of my knowledge, this crossing is not open for tourists. The Kyrgyz
border guards have recently strengthened their presence on the Kyrgyz side to prevent
drug trafficking, smuggling and terrorism. Don't even try to cross here. See reports
If anyone has relevant personal experience, please send me an e-mail via the link on the
Turkish Airlines now flies to and from Osh. See
FlyDubai is planning flights to Osh - see
here - but take with a pinch of salt "the mountains in Tajikistan for skiing...."
3) via Tashkent
Transiting via Tashkent requires travelling by road to Khujand in
Northern Tajikistan and then flying with Tajik Air to Dushanbe or
continuing by road; an Uzbek visa is required. Until the Uzbek
frontier posts are more accommodating to international tourists,
travel via Tashkent to Dushanbe and vice versa is not recommended.
4) Kulma Pass to/from China
A recent notice posted by the US Embassy in Dushanbe states that an agreement was signed
between the Tajikistan and Chinese governments on December 29, 2011, whereby the Kulma pass
border has now become a full-fledged border that will be open year-round.
N.B.Despite confirmation received April 2013 from the Tajik
Border Guard commander and the Khorog Tourist Office that the Kulma Pass to/from China
is now open for tourists, it seems that this is still not generally the case
I have only one first-hand report of a tourist crossing. In February 2017, Colin M. wrote to
inform me that he crossed from Tajikistan into China by foot over the Kulma Pass on November 15th, 2016.
Colin is a Canadian citizen, but has lived in China for many years and has a Chinese work permit.
He also speaks Chinese fluently (and has a Chinese wife and daughter, who was born in China).
He believes all of these factors were vital to his success in crossing the Kulma, which wasn't easy,
but it should also be techinically possible for anyone with a valid visa to cross as long as they are
VERY persistent. He notes that "since sometime in 2013/2014 (reports differ on the exact date), the border is supposed
to be officially open to "TCNs" (third country nationals) but reports abound of both Tajik and Chinese
authorities stonewalling tourists at the border with all sorts of excuses." Colin has only read of 3 "TCNs"
making it across: "one was a Chinese guy from Hong Kong with a British passport who cycled across from the
Chinese side in 2014; the other was an American who speaks Chinese and Kyrgyz, who crossed from Tajikistan
in 2016, but who likewise said it was very difficult; and, finally, a person of unreported nationality who
battled with Chinese bureaucracy for 6 days before he was reluctantly allowed through from the Chinese side in 2015.
His story is actually quite amusing and informative: see
If anyone else has done so successfully, please send me an e-mail via the link on the
Home Page. See also
TRAVEL BY PRIVATE CAR
A recent report, describing a journey made in 2009 in a private vehhicle from Austria to Tibet, reports that
no major problems were encountered at the Uzbek border coming from Tashkent nor on the Tajik side.
The group crossed the Tajik frontier at Bustan north of Khujand
and left through Kyzylart on the Pamir Highway. Unfortunately the blog is only in German: see
See Section on Tour Operators and other services.
For Trekking see the
For trekking in the Bartang valley, including Sarez, and around Bulunkul,
contact Odina Nurmamadov, who comes from the village of Bassid in the
here - Mobile phone +992 91 936 6772,
Khorog home number +992 835 222 47 59. Odina has just set up his own tour company - see
New small Tour Operators:
For trekking and horse trekking in and around the most beautiful villages of the Pamirs see
here. Aslisho Qurboniev, the operator,
is one of the most remarkable self-starters in Pamirs tourism. Contact:
For an attractive and rather different approach to tour organising, see Matthieu Paley's new website:
www.pamirknot.com. Matthieu, in addition to being a superb photographer with high
sensibility for the dignity of the people he portrays, is an intrepid and well-informed high mountain
traveller. I wish him well with this promising new venture.
A new tour facilitator PamirLink offers special Eco-Cultural packages that include volunteer
project work - See
here. I also wish good luck to Roman Droux,
an old Pamirs hand, who is working on this venture with Odina Nurmamadov (see above, under Trekking).
Pamir Trek Association, a new non-commercial group of guides to the Pamirs, including neighbouring regions of
Kyrgyzstan, has recently been formed with special emphasis on horse trekking. See
If you are a hunter, or want to see Marco Polo sheep - or just want to
visit one of the most remote corners of the Pamirs and stay in a hunting
camp (Jarty Gumbez) with a hot spring, get in touch with
Tel Murghab (+992 3554) 333
Khorog (+992 35222) 3333 / 2982 / 4113
(+992 372) 23 34 00 / 21 17 43
Moscow (+7495) 362 0830 / 361 42 84.
66 Lenin Street Murghab
Tel (+992 3554) 21 639
Also in Dushanbe:
Dekhoti Street 21/3 Apartment 33
Tel (+992 372) 34 06 20
IMPORTANT NOTICE ON SAFETY
The Pamirs are very much "virgin territory" for tourism. Make certain that
you know the conditions of the tracks, rivers and bridges that you envisage taking
and check meteorological conditions. Take a good driver and a reliable vehicle - if your
route includes uninhabited territory, it is advisable to travel with at least two vehicles. For example:
a) in summer in the Great Pamir there are
large areas of treacherous terrain where a mud-slide has been covered with a baked clay surface that
looks stable but is not;
b) many mountain sides are covered in scree (broken rock fragments) that is unstable and very slippery.
c) flooding/flash floods can destroy roads and make driving dangerous
d) unseasonal snow can block the Pamir Highway and other roads
See photos below and the note on safety on the
The sponsors of the present website decline all responsibility for accidents.
All text and
photographs (c) Robert Middleton 2002
Web master Romanyuk